Wednesday, July 2, 2008

4th country surfed (theoretically 5th)





I know get to add Japan to my list of countries surfed in my life time (so far).  Others countries 
1. Mexico
2. Costa Rica 
3. Nicaragua
and now
4. Japan

(beat that Fish)

I will add Kauai, Hawaii to this list because it's pretty much another country surfwise and any other wise for that matter.
So 5 countries. Hopefully as I continue to breath oxygen the number of countries on this list will grow.

A friend of Jeff named Hero Kamatsu took us surfing to this fun little surf spot a few hours from Tokyo.  He started surfing when he was 44 and has loved every second of it. He took us to HIC (Hawaiian Island Creations) surf shop in a town called Chiba.  The guys and gals at the shop were very nice.  The people in the surf culture here in Japan are quite different than the hectic city urbanities I usually run into.  It was nice to see some friendly faces and get back in the water.  The beach is definitely one of the things I miss most about home.  The surf was not perfect, a little choppy and scattered but I was still able to catch a few good ones. I think I'll get to go at least one more time. Can't wait.

One more thing, the Japanese are so efficient.  Surfers had buckets and portable showers to wash themselves off and their wetsuits and boards. It was just so impressive. Some of you surfers reading this can appreciate that, I know I can.  I usually leave my wetsuit in the back of my car wet and sandy until the next time I use it, which makes for an unpleasant smell.

4 comments:

yazz said...

This is so amazing! I'm so excited for you.

David Pearsey said...

dduuuddeee....

so sick!

i just wish i was as cool as you and could say that I've surfed multiple countries.

lame face.

miss you!

when do you come back??

Carrie Allen said...

that's a nice picture of you. :)

. said...

I have uhmm taken pictures of surfers in Japan : )